Posts from — June 2009

Braised Oxtail with Picadillo Red Peppers, Tomato and Red Wine Reduction

The proper preparation of oxtail (the commonly available form being tail of cow rather than ox),  involves prolonged braising or stewing. Although nothing can beat my mother’s version, Alma de Cuba’s variation showcases everything that makes oxtail such a comforting food; tender flesh waiting to be coaxed away from the bone, an aroma so heady as to tempt the staunchest vegetarian, and a beef flavor rich enough to perfume the dreams of the most committed of carnivores.  

Details: 94 Christopher St, New York, NY (+1 212-242-3800‎)

Dry Aged Côte de Boeuf with Roasted Marrow Bones

After reading a review of this restaurant by the NYT’s Frank Bruni in which he mentions “sublime hunk[s] of glorious meat that you dream about hours later [and] pine for the next day,” my appetite was thoroughly aroused. The multimedia slideshow that accompanied the article paraded an array of dishes glistening with fat, oozing sauce, and dripping blood in a manner that can most appropriately described as erotic. I was not a bit surprised that making a reservation one month in advance involved the deployment of half the weapons in my negotitation arsenal. In hindsight, I am glad that I was forced to exercise patience. Delay of gratification can only enhance the delights of indulgence, and in this case the combination of dizzy anticipation and decadent lived experience resulted in a rare and complete satiety. Each exquisite bite of bone marrow slathered atop a crisp baguette soldier was an explosion of flavor subtly sweetened with shallot confit. After a good meal, a dear friend of mine often quips that she feels like “licking the plate clean.” I think my fellow diners would have been thoroughly scandalized had I acted upon the urge to do that and more to the nearly-stripped beef bones crying out for attention. I know my dinner date was rather surprised that his humble steak tartare could cause, compell rather, a most wicked reaching across of the table. From the electric spark of fingers momentarily entwined around the same fork to the mutual sighs of pleasure in consumption, the destiny of a meal shared at Minetta Tavern is that of becoming a seriously sensual feast.

Details: 113 Macdougal St New York, NY 10012-1201 (+1-212-475-3850)

Green Tea Power (Matcha Green Tea Powder, Banana, Frozen Melon, and Soymilk)

Many people look forward to a morning coffee to help them wake up. I try very hard to not pick up habits that make me dependent on a particular substance, but this particular Elixir smoothie has me totally enslaved. The combination of banana and frozen melon is a stroke of genius, causing it to be both substantial and refreshing. There is no Elixir branch near the apartment in which I am staying, so nowadays I find myself going into the office earlier and earlier so that I can get my fix. Suggestions for alternative smoothie combos welcome, as this sort of addictive behaviour has clearly become hazardous to my health!

Steamed Vermicelli with Lobster in Egg White

So I’ve been deathly ill all week and haven’t had a chance to indulge in any RGF. This is why the day I felt better I decided to invite my fellow foodies Jesslyne and Shierley for a Chinese banquet. These ladies know how to order! I had been looking forward to eating at Min Jiang at the Royal Garden Hotel ever since hearing from a trusted source that ”Hakkasan is passé; Min Jiang is THE Chinese restaurant now.” Imagine my surprise when I arrived this evening, read the brochure, and realised that this was the London branch of a well-known restaurant in my home country of Singapore! Hakkasan’s owners should be shaking in their boots! Min Jiang may be more traditional than trendy, but such a sweet and delicate lobster noodle I have never before sampled, not even in Asia. Really high quality Chinese food is all about the ingredients, and tonight’s meal made me dread going back to the US, where chefs pander to Western tastebuds and there is a puzzling dearth of authentic cuisine.

 Details: 2-24 Kensington High Street Kensington, W8 4PT (+442079378000)

Red Mullet Jungle Curry with Coconut Tip, Green Peppercorn, and Chilli

Wardour St in Soho is just one of those streets that seems to have good, affordable, trendy restaurants bursting out of every nook and cranny. I walked past this particular restaurants a few weeks ago on a Friday night and made a mental note to come back during the day, as so many people were lined up outside that I couldn’t even see the signboard! If Londonites are queuing (and impatiently at that!), you can be assured that something good awaits at the finish line. This hip Thai eatery would fit seemlessly in Bangkok or Singapore; in London it is a sparkling gem of easy authenticity in a sea of  pan-Asian imposters like the overpriced Taman Gang.

Details: 106-110 Wardour St London W1F 0TR (+442072558686)

Caviar Osciètre d’Iran avec Langoustine Refraîchie, Nage Réduite, Bouillon Parfumé

I believe quite firmly that certain restaurants require particular audiences and occassions. Don’t get me wrong, I would rather not eat than eat something that wasn’t Really Good Food,  but everything has a place and a time. At 3am on a Friday night that kebab stand on Edgeware Road really is the most satisfying and appropriate fare. So too are the restaurants of the magnificent Alain Ducasse perfectly suited to family celebrations. Perhaps his particular brand of French haute cuisine holds such a fond place in my heart because my first enjoyment of it was shared with my father. I don’t get the chance to see Daddy very often, so every meal we have together is something to savour. This is why I feel that the various courses of a dégustation such as the one presented at my friend Seun’s graduation party in Paris serve to nourish spiritually as well as materially. To partake is to become a privileged participant in a performance of the most pleasurable kind. Luxurious foods like this lobster and caviar concoction should not be eaten every day. Rather, through the joys of shared indulgence, we are reminded that we love and are loved in return.

Details: 25 Avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, France (+33 1 53 67 66 65)

The Milkybar Kid (Creamy Milkybar and Fresh Strawberries)

Most people probably love Fridays at the office. I haven’t felt that way for quite a while now. This is something which I attribute to the dubious honor of my having been appointed company food czar. A reasonable person might assume that combined joys of Friday+free food would make my position somewhat unassailable, but that person underestimates the ability of the hungry consultant to retain his or her value-maximizing instinct. It never ceases to amaze me how emotionally charged the issue of food can become. Neglecting to remember someone’s dislike of cucumbers is a gross error, forgetting to provide a vegan option an unpardonable offense. This Friday, in an attempt to please all, I engaged the catering services of the entrepeneurial Nick Willoughby of Covent Garden’s Creme de la Crepe for an in-office crepe making extravaganza. 30 happy consultants in 30 minutes. Highly recommended for all your corporate catering needs!

Details: The Market Covent Garden, Covent Garden, London, WC2E 8BE (+44 20 7836 6896)

Crispy Poached Eggs with Caviar and Creme Fraiche

Details: 176 Perry St New York, NY 10014-2384 (+1-212-352-1900)

Peruvian Corn

Details: 87 7th Ave S, New York, NY (+1-212-691-7885)

Sunomono (Thinly Sliced Conch, Cucumber, and Watercress Dressed with Sweet Rice Vinaigrette)

Details: 621 E Central Blvd Orlando, FL 32801 (+1-407-420-9420)