The Waverly Inn & Garden @ NYC ****

Truffle Mac & Cheese

I will own up to a certain smugness about a) having dined upon the Truffle Mac & Cheese, which is a secret off-menu item and b) having surreptitiously taken a photograph of it when “photography is strictly prohibited.” As in many other realms, the ilicit is exciting, and so too of course is its evil twin, exclusivity. Despite being cogniscent of the ridiculousness of the hoops one must jump through to make a reservation (those unaware of the secret email address must supplicate themselves in person),  I will unashamedly admit that the extra effort involved in obtaining a reservation and additionally eating something that most of other diners aren’t even aware of makes the food taste better. I’ve given a lot of thought to, received much criticism for, and felt a great deal of guilt over my fixation with fashionable restaurants, but in the end I hope we can all agree that these places are in demand for a reason. From the tiny and perfect Kumamoto Oysters that slide silkily down my throat and the honey-buttered biscuits that I steeled myself not to ask for a second helping of, to the jazz club recommended by our attentive waiter, the Waverly Inn’s atmostphere of indulgence amplifies the dining experience to a level where lasting memories are made. If an overall feeling that wonderful must be given a label, then fashionable doesn’t have to be a dirty word and perhaps a little kowtowing to gain entry isn’t so undeserved.

Details: 16 Bank St New York, NY 10014-5231