Posts from — July 2009

Details: 50 Clinton St New York, NY 10002-2401 (+1-212-477-2900)

Niman Ranch Natural Fearless Frank with Sauerkraut and Ketchup

Details: 210 W 10th St # 1 New York, NY 10014-6411 (+1-212-741-7971)

Mango Salad

After a truly delightful experience last month at Jean Georges Vongerichten’s Perry St, I had high hopes for Vong, another landmark in his rapidly expanding global empire. By telling a little white lie about a non-existent birthday celebration, I successfully persuaded the hostess that my group of 5 would be much happier accomodated in a cavernous banquette than in the middle of the after-work dinner clamour.  Sinking into my plush, silken seat, I looked forward to being impressed. Over-priced street food is the bread and butter of trendy Asian fusion restaurants, and I am usually quite happy to pay a premium for a taste of nostalgia. However, in so doing, I expect to be served dishes that are roughly the same quality if not better than a single-person mobile operation can prepare by the side of the road. Mango salad is not a complicated dish. A vegetable parer, a few herbs, and some other fresh ingredients are all that is required for a refreshing repast. At Vong somehow this equation went terribly wrong. The mango slices were rather soggy and not plentiful enough, the green beans undercooked, and the only interesting addition to the dish- candied tamarind- was not even mentioned in the menu description. I am disillusioned from Jean George’s bold claim that his varied restaurants offer “A cuisine for every taste.” The next time I have a taste for Thai I will take myself to Highline or Kittichai.

Details: 200 E 54th St New York, NY 10022-4833 (+1-212-486-9592)

Blue Ribbon Maki (1/2 Lobster, Shiso, and Black Caviar)

When I was at univserity and living in Boston, if I had a particularly difficult day I would stop by the Oishii sushi bar. Sometimes a little bluefin tuna is all it takes to make you realize that things aren’t so bad after all. I never mind eating by myself at a restaurant, but I find that sushi bars are especially conducive to the solitary dining experience. I had heard great things about Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar and Grill and raved over the Blue Ribbon Brasserie, so expectations were high. I’m always slightly resentful and suspicious of restaurants that don’t take reservations (it’s just uncivilized!), but since I found myself near Columbus Circle one evening, I decided to try my luck. Perhaps the energetic atmosphere wouldn’t have grated on me had I been feeling energetic myself, but when it came down to the basics of food, this restaurant still fell short of expectations. For an eponymous “Blue Ribbon” Maki, I expected nothing short of spectacular, innovative, or at least excellent. Instead, the output was something that seemed to follow the logic, if ingredients are expensive, then dish will succeed. Perhaps I should go back with a group and give this place a second chance, but really there are so many places to eat sushi in NYC that besides the obvious superstars like Masa and Megu, I am eager for off-the-beaten track options like LAN, where quality of ingredients is acceptable, but what really adds value is the inventiveness of the chef. Suggstions welcome!

Details: 308 W. 58th Street New York, NY 10019 (+1-212-397-0404)

Yook Hwe (Sesame and Soy Marinated Steak Tartare)

In his review of Minetta Tavern, the NYT’s Frank Bruni describes the côte de boeuf as “sublime,” and goes so far as to say its the sort of thing ”that you dream about hours later, pine for the next day and extol in a manner… rapturous and nonstop.” Complete rapture quite handily sums up the feeling I had while savoring Woo Lae Oak’s unforgettable steak tartare. Some might argue that  Korean BBQ is best appreciated at more “authentic” establishments in the heart of K-Town such as Wonjo. However, I think that trendy as it may be (all constructive dinner conversation this evening ceased when Jessica Alba was seated at the next table), Woo Lae Oak stays true to what in my mind are the higher ideals of the experience- namely a primal sort of camraderie that comes from cooking your own meat over hot coals and a spirited free-for-all over the tastiest morsels. I will admit to monopolizing an entire plate of the Yook Hwe despite the ostensible ”family style” ordering.  Try to eat  here with a big group in order to taste more items (if you are quick enough that is). And just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, an astonishing added bonus are the desserts! Merely reading the description of Tropical Snow (Shaved Coconut Ice surrounded by Jellied Fruit, Sweet Beans, and Coconut Ice Cream) is guaranteed to make you wish you had not been quite so greedy over the grill. 

Details: 148 Mercer St New York, NY 10012-3256 (+1-212-925-8200)

Crispy Brussel Sprouts with Granny Smith Apples, Crème Fraîche, and Pistachio Nuts

I’m the sort of person who enjoys doing research before dining, and I’ll admit that a treasured  Monday morning ritual is to get on the phone and on Opentable.com to make the week’s reservations. I find it extremely comforting and not weird at all that I know exactly where I at least could eat every night for the next month or so. Because of this and because they like to humor my foodie hobby, I am usually the meal organiser within my group of friends. Every once in a while though, I take a chance and accept an invitation without doing any background reading, and in the case of the unobtrusive Alta, am completely blown away! The $400 Whole Shebang option recommended for parties of 9 or more, entails being served all 46 dishes on the menu!!! It only has a food rating of 23 on Zagat, but in my humble opinion, the dizzying array of inventive small plates with such cosmopolitan and confusingly complementary components such as Danish Pork Ribs Roasted with Kecap Manis and Coriander, places Alta within the highest echelon of practitioners of the art of tapas. For your next team dinner or group celebration be sure to stop by for unforgettable feasting. Special thanks to Jay for the recommendation.

Details: 64 W 10th St New York, NY 10011-8702 (+1-212-505-7777)

Filet of Oven Roasted Barramundi with Garlic, Evo, and Thyme

The advantage of having friends in a city is that although one is a traveller, one doesn’t need to feel like a tourist. I hesitate to use such a loaded term as ”authentic,” but in this instance I find it appropriate. Although it doesn’t feature on Zagat, isn’t available on Opentable, and is miles away from a list like the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants, being taken to a charming hole-in-the wall like La Sirene is the sort of experience to write home about; with seating for only 25 patrons, to dine is to be taken into confidence. Portions are generous, and menu items like the warm goat cheese tart inspire the wicked thought of ordering seconds. Presentation may be simple and atmosphere my be no frills (lack of a liquor license makes it BYOB), but in a city fraught with chains restaurants and celebrity chefs, Didier Pawlicki’s humble establishment stands out as a clear labour of love.

Details: 558 Broome St New York, NY 10013-1508 (+1 212-925-3061)

Red and Yellow Tomato Bread Soup with Olive Oil and Basil

In continuance of my quest to try all the restaurants in the Jean Georges universe, I kicked off NYC restaurant week with a Sunday dinner at Mercer Kitchen. I’d been wanting to eat here for some time, as a few months ago I lost my phone in a cab, and the girl who returned it happened to be eating at this restaurant. In the sort of way that seeing something in a movie makes you want to go out and recreate the experience, seeing this drop dead gorgeous Good Samaritan emerge from the bowels of this stylish subterranean salon was instantly compelling. I usually care much more about a restaurant’s food than its atmosphere, but when I finally ate there I must admit feeling a certain senses of unease about its half-empty state. Peace and quiet are often desireable dining companions, but without a throng of the young and beautiful to lend it a certain energy, Mercer Kitchen is adequate but not astounding. To experience its full effect in all its glamorous glory, make sure your reservation is for a Saturnight night.

Details: 99 Prince St New York, NY 10012-3218 (+1 212-966-5454)

Pork Buns with Sesame Peanut Sauce

The only problem with places that are small, off-the-beaten-track, and great is that although one aspires to a certain air of nonchalance, an inconvenient amount of pre-planning is required. I had originally intended to eat here with a group of 3, but when I wanted to add one more person to our party, we couldn’t be accomodated. Since there are over 10,000 restaurants in NYC, for now I generally avoid eating anywhere twice. However, in situations like this I find myself longing for the personal relationships that make one a favored regular at a favorite spot.   

Details: 113 Ludlow St New York, N.Y. 10002 (+1 212-353-8866)

Pickled Watermelon Rind

I’m not such a frequent patron of bars. This is mainly because I’d rather be eating food! However, The New York Times’ Frugal Traveller recently did a feature on bar snacks which inspired me to venture out, reassured that I would get my nightly fix of RGF despite the lack of a formal dining setting. The pickled watermelon rind on the menu at Madam Geneva immediately stood out- who ever eats rind? For a refreshing treat, don’t be afraid to order something out of the ordinary, but do be forewarned that a high tolerance for cilantro is a prerequisite.

Details: 4 Bleecker St New York, NY 10012 (+1 212-254-0350)