Posts from — July 2009

Grilled Trout with Dill Potatoes Radish and Swiss Chard

A friend recently reminded me that one of America’s most positive attributes is a little thing called democracy. In a city that thrives on the manufactured exclusivity of places like the Waverly Inn, Ko’s no-execptions policy of online-only reservations made one week in advance of the dining date gives any mouse-slinger quick-to-the-click access to David Chang’s 14-seat inner sanctum. Fairness is followed so strictly that for fear that a unsavory individual might sell his or her allotted hours, photo ID and paper printouts must be produced, not to mention the $150 fine for a no-show.  The process might be democratic, but must it also be so uncivilized? Perhaps the charm of restaurants like Jean George’s V, and of members-only institutions in general is that even if they are not accessible to the general public, once one becomes a member or a favored regular, a relationship is formed. In the months that I have spent in Manhattan, I have noticed that foodies and scenesters alike are constant victims of the marketing manipulators that would have us all seeking treatment for anxiety. If the customers aren’t always off-balance and uncertain of being granted the privilege of patronage, then the PR staff are not doing their jobs no? Perhaps some enjoy the thrill of the chase, but I am beginning to long for London and other locales where I can take comfort in familiarity and experience acceptance without the fear of a fall from grace.  That said, the rich smoothness of Momofuku Ko’s Shaved Foie Gras over Riesling Jelly (achieved by freezing the block of foie gras and and grating it like cheese) would melt the most jaded of hearts and the open-kitchen omakase experience certainly merits trans-Atlantic travel.

Details: 163 1st Ave near 10th St New York, NY 10003 (+1-212-500-0831)

Sea Urchin Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar

This Christmas I received the book Never Order Chicken on a Monday from a Secret  Santa who accompanied his gift with a note encouraging me to explore my true calling  as a gourmet. Six months down the line, I realise how certain seemingly minor incidents can turn out to be life-defining. From its beginning as a Facebook album to its current incarnation as a blog, Really Good Food has become a central part of my identity in a way that my sixteen year-old, picky eater self would never have imagined. Nowadays not only do I never order chicken on mondays; I never order chicken period. While I admit that there is a certain element of “trophy hunting” in my persistant consumption and photography of exotic foods, I’ve found that choosing something “adventurous” and being pleasantly surprised, or even blown away is a welcome thrill that I’ve experienced on almost a daily basis since becoming a fully committed omnivore. Sea urchin both looks and sounds like something to be approached with apprehension, but I assure you that at LAN the brave are well-rewarded.

Details: 56 3rd Ave (bet 10th & 11th) New York, NY (+1 212-254-1959)

Jasmine Milk Tea

Details: 54 JFK St Cambridge, MA 02138 (+1-617-945-0017)

Kumamoto Oysters               Royal Miyagi Oysters

Oysters are one of those foods that one associates with decadence, and rightly so. All the effort that goes into farming, transport, and storage might seem like an extravagant use of resources in exchange for rather a paltry payout. Speculation about their effect as an aphrodisiac aside, I would venture that when we order oysters we do so because eating one is evocative of experiences on the ocean. Food often has the quality of conjuring a mental image, and for me the taste of a freshly opened oyster makes me feel nostalgic for setting sail into a salty breeze and for the delight of a headlong plunge into wind-beaten waves. Whether you have them elaborately garnished like those found at O Ya, or perfectly plain like those at B&G Oysters, Boston is the place to indulge.  

Details: O Ya: 9 East Street Boston, MA 02111 (+1 617-654-9900), B&G Oysters: 550 Tremont St Boston, MA 02116-6314 (+1 617-423-0550)

Roasted Banana wrapped in Sweet Rice with Coconut Milk Tapioca

Details: 430 Lafayette St # 1 New York, NY 10003-6928 (+1 212-505-5111)

Buttermilk Cupcakes

Details: 401 Bleecker Street New York, NY 10014 (+1-212-462-2572)