Posts from — August 2009

Organic Zen Noodles

For those of us who associate Korean cuisine with a carniverous feeding frenzy, Hangawi presents the most pleasant surprise that the prospect of being served only vegetables does not have to limit ones ordering options. With nary a BBQ grill in sight, and with a menu as extensive as Dirt Candy’s is limited, here is a place where vegetarians can feast. The silky texture of the organic zen noodles slipping down my throat amid the savour of sesame oil caused me to forget that meat was missing. And despite sampling all manner of gimbop (Korean-style sushi rolls), assorted leek, kimchi, and pumpkin pancakes, as well as the classic bimbim bap, additional choices still tempted me enough to plot the rare repeat visit.  Enshrined behind massive wooden doors, the restaurant, located on E 32nd St, stands in stark contrast to the rest of K-town, bustling, better-known, more brightly lit, and just one block away stretching along W 32nd St. As austere as Woo Lae Oak is trendy, to enter is to take refuge. And oh, don’t forget to take off your shoes.        

Details: 12E 32nd St (between 5th & Madison) New York, NY 10016 (+1-212-213-0077)

Dumont Burger (Grilled Brioche Bun, Gruyere Cheese, Boston Bibb Lettuce, Tomato, Shaved Red Onion and Pickles)

Blessed with an unexpected afternoon off from work, I decided that this particular Monday would be the perfect time to finally make a trek out to that unexplored foodie mecca known as Brooklyn. Having successfully avoided this classic American staple of unhealthy eating the entire time I’ve been in NYC, today was also the day to try what the 2009 Zagat guide has crowned “Best Burger in NY.” After surviving Cambridge, MA’s Arctic climate conditions for four years based on insulation from Canada Goose’s unbeatable line of expedition gear and regular bouts of saturated fat intake provided by Mr. Bartley’s Gourmet Burgers , I can safely say that my standards are high.

Having small hands, I am accustomed to eating even the daintiest of burgers with cutlery. Yet, my first tentative forkful of this Brooklyn behemoth had me performing a wild cost-benefit analysis of palm surface-area to burger-volume-ratio. Raising the entire steaming sandwich to my mouth, I set self-consciousness aside, allowing paroxyms of pleasure and melted cheese alike to wash over me indiscriminately. While the generous patty was perfectly medium-rare and one can’t go very wrong with Gruyere,  what elevates DuMont’s offering to the highest echelons of burgerdom is definitely the brioche bun. Lightly toasted, coated with a thin layer of mayonnaise, and lending a subtle sweetness to an overpoweringly savory experience, this is what justifies an adventure to an outer burrough. Incidentally, while the mac and cheese at London’s Automat still holds poll position, the DuMac and Cheese easily beats that of The Waverly Inn, truffles and all.

Details: 314 Bedford Ave, Brooklyn 11211 (Btwn S 1st & S 2nd St) (+1-718-384-6128)

Uitsmijter Tanteloes (Open Fried Egg, Ham and Cheese Sandwich)

Last weekend I flew back to Europe to visit my Uncle Rene, who kindly arranged an informal family reunion at the Tante Loes restaurant in my father’s hometown of Rhenen, Netherlands. I had visited a few times in childhood, and always associated this place with the stories I had been told (and begged to be retold)- of daredevil bicycle tricks performed along the ten-mile ride to school, of swimming across the Rhine to steal apples from a neighbor’s orchard, and most thrilling and memorable of all, of accidentally burning down the family home when a stray match ignited the roof thatch. Given this nostalgia, to stroll into a sleek lounge resplendent with Starck-esque interiors and a river-front terrace that would not have been out of place in Bali or Ibiza was to be shocked. According to my family members, Tante Loes in its present ultra-modern incarnation is a far cry from a chequered past as front office for activities of questionable legality.

Lately my remembrances are defined by certain memorable meals, and this one was more so than most. Not having spent much time in the Netherlands despite holding a Dutch passport, my connection to the place has never felt that strong. The menu that was handed to me was printed in English, as was the language that I ordered in. The creamy, crispy Uitsmijter that I ate was a breakfast dish that should have been familiar, but wasn’t. I would never claim to be a “real” Dutch girl, but despite the fact that I’ve missed a lot of opportunity to identify with my roots, something that is of great comfort to me is that through food over all other social glues, it is never too late to form the ties that bind.

I may not have eaten Uitsmijter as a child, but each time I eat it in the future I shall think of a windswept day on the Rhine spent re-connecting with the extended family I regret not having known more of. Happily, love of RGF appears to run in the family and I’m sure I’ll very shortly have reports of breaking bread with Uncle Piet in Holland or grilling fish with Cousin Rob in Greece.

Details: Veerplein 1, 3911 TN Rhenen, Netherlands (+31317616161)

Popcorn Pudding with Whipped Cream, Butterscotch, Hazelnuts, and Salted Butter Popcorn

A friend recently shared with me that being a vegetarian makes his life very simple. Even in New York City any given restaurant is likely to have at most three vegetarian entrées, thus decision-making while dining can be kept to a minimum. While I agree that simplification does have its advantages, exposure to a dizzy world of choice was the goal I had in mind when booking an all-vegetarian restaurant. Even though there are only about ten tables, I don’t think it was an unreasonable expectation that a meat-free kitchen would be able to serve up more than four distinct main dishes. I feel perfectly justified in my disappointment.

That said, the Onion Soup with Farmhouse Cheddar and Kumquat Marmalade was a pleasureable puzzlement ( It was only a few days after the meal that I realized why it had tasted so fundamentally wrong- all the onion soups I had eaten in the past were made with beef stock. This onion-only version had the nerve to be sweet!) Even though I came here specifically seeking vegetables, or as chef Amanda Cohen like to call them- “candy from the dirt,” it was dessert that turned out to be a real winner- velvety, with that winning combinatin of salty and sweet. Final assessment- the desire to eat popcorn pudding probably sells a lot of broccolini.

Details: 430 E. 9th St New York, NY 10009 (+1-212-228-7732)

Lobster Thermidor

In the interest of finding restaurants to write about that haven’t already been widely reviewed, I’ve been seeking off-the-beaten-track recommendations high and low, the most intriguing of which have come from people like my friend Brian who are just that much cooler and more New York than myself.  Another great resource has been the the male-targeted mailing list UrbanDaddy, which is where I heard about Hotel Griffou.

My feelings about this place are mixed. Another friend of mine who works in the luxury haircare industry once told me that every high-end brand needs a history. If an establishment can withstand the test of time then something must be going right yes? In this particular instance, the branding strategy seems to be, “if you have no history, invent one.” Taking this observation into account explains a lot- how the restaurant came to have the word hotel in its name (after a 1870s boardinghouse owned by a Madame Griffou),  why Americana lines the walls and finally, why it all doesn’t quite seem to work. English hunt scenes, posters of the Wild West, a heritage American flag and vintage Playboys all jostle for attention in the room called The Library. Dishes like lobster thermidor  and duck confit poutine rely on the lazy French chef’s adage of “the more butter, cheese, and cream, the better it tastes.” The menu item Madame Marie Griffou’s Sauteed Pork Cutlets (from her 1892 recipe) is a mouthful before it even makes it to your table. Overall, like the waitress who wore a skirt just short of decent, one gets the feeling that this restaurant is trying a little bit too hard.

As in the case of luxury leather goods, knock-offs can take you 80% of the way, but nothing can substitute for a time-honored tradition of craftsmanship and service. If speakeasy chic is what you seek, Please Don’t Tell and La Esquina, should be the subterranean lairs of choice.

Details: 21 W. 9th St (btwn 5th and 6th Ave) New York, NY 10003 (+1-212-358-0228)

Greek Salad

Perhaps Manhattanites let their hair down and crave unhealthy foods on Sundays? Perhaps few people who live at Midtown like to brunch? Neither of these reasons is a good explanation for why this extremely charming restaurant was deserted. Given my previous nightmare experience at Permanent Brunch, anything would have seemed superior in comparison. However, from the enticing display of fresh seafood a la Milos to the live jazz trio and relaxed outdoor seating section, Avra earns accolades entirely on its own merit. Not having to wait in line, a reasonably priced set menu, good music- what more could a group of ladies ask for? Perhaps I should have kept this place a secret. Come, but do so quietly.  

Details: 141 E 48th St New York, NY 10017-1223 (+1-212-759-8550)

Prince Edward Island Oysters

Once again I have to give credit to my friend Brian for having great taste and a great resourcefulness in knowing about non-mainstream places to eat RGF. Although nowadays widely viewed as a delicacy and a luxury to be consumed by a privileged few, according to Rebecca Stott’s book Oyster, in Dickens’ days, these difficult-to-preserve molluscs were widely enjoyed by the urban poor in the open air. My deep enjoyment of Milford, CT’s annual Oyster Festival probably has a lot to do with the fact that the event made extremely high quality oysters accessible not only in terms of favorable pricing but also in terms of presentation. If we take these Prince Edward Island Oysters as a case study, we may postulate that RGF is just as likely to be served on a paper plate with a napkin  as it is on bone china with a snowy white tablecloth. I’ll concede that I was a little extravagent in my ordering and entirely avaricious in my consumption, from now until next year’s Festival I shall be on the look-out for more such down-to-earth discoveries!

Details: Shipyard Lane, Milford, CT

Maguro Natto (Fresh Tuna Sashimi Served with Fermented Soy Beans)

Details: 211 E 43rd St New York, NY 10017-4707 (+1-212-953-7253)

Momofuku Ramen (Pork Belly, Pork Shoulder, Poached Egg)

After going rather wild over the truly innovative food at Ko, Ssam Bar, and Milk Bar, I had been really looking forward to the flagship Momofuku experience. However, for a restaurant calling itself “Noodle Bar,” this one displays a disappointing dearth of noodles! Since most ramen dishes use the same yellow egg noodles, but combinations of toppings and accompanying broths are essentially infinite, this paltry offering implies a rather insulting lack of creativity. Admittedly, in light of the pork binge that I’ve been on lately, the Momofuku Ramen upholds the golden truth that adding some piggy parts always makes things taste better, and the noodles did have that delightful springiness in the mouth. Similarly, its hard to go wrong with the signature Steamed Buns. However, I suspect deeply that a great deal of my appreciation of this meal was falsely enhanced by the amount of time spent waiting for a table at yet another institution that oppresses busy New York professionals with its no reservations policy. Conclusion, if you’re willing to queue, then quickly to Ippudo.

Mr. Chang, you’re 3 for 4.  Can’t wait to see what’s next.

Details: 171 1st Ave New York, NY 10003 (+1-212-777-7773)

Sardines with Toasted Country Bread, Fennel, and Celery

I have said it before and I will say it again, restaurants that do not take reservations are a chore. I dislike the presumptuousness on the part of the restaurant that customers will be willing to queue, I resent the emotional roller-coaster of fear followed by disappointment or boredom, and most of all I despise myself for feeling so darned lucky when I am finally able to get a table.

I am grateful to my friends Lucy and Seun for being gracious enough to endure the drama inherent in braving the dinner rush on day 4 of a much-hyped restaurant’s opening week. In this particular instance, a good thirty-odd minutes of staring down patrons seated at the bar proved an effective seating solution. Indeed, not actually having a table afforded us the unexpected privilege of a chat with owner Gabriel Stulman who just happened to be pouring drinks that evening. When questions about the no-reservations policy, he waxed lyrical about how he was trying to create a “neighborhood” restaurant. Even if his real reasons are most likely that not taking reservations helps to turn over more tables each evening, I appreciated the high-minded justification.

Of the food I would say $1.50 wellfleet and malpque oysters are difficult to fault and jonah crab claws are even quite deserving of praise, but I certainly would not spend any time in line over them. If a restaurant is positioning itself as a “neighborhood” gem, then wouldn’t it do well to cultivate real relationships with customers? As Eddie the friendly bartender in the restaurant below my office is aware, when I come to  The Grill Room I come for ”the usual.”  The fact that he remembers this and that he always keeps my regular table free means a lot in a place like Manhattan where faces are quickly forgotten and  trading up is a city-wide pastime. In the case of Joseph Leonard, pursuing a new lover, sometimes the fun is all in the chase. If  happiness without insecurity sounds good to you, then skip the drama and find your own Eddie. I promise you’ll find good reason to agree that faithful is better than fickle.

Details: 170 Waverly Place (at Grove St) New York, NY 10014