Tante Loes @ Rhenen, Netherlands ****

Uitsmijter Tanteloes (Open Fried Egg, Ham and Cheese Sandwich)

Last weekend I flew back to Europe to visit my Uncle Rene, who kindly arranged an informal family reunion at the Tante Loes restaurant in my father’s hometown of Rhenen, Netherlands. I had visited a few times in childhood, and always associated this place with the stories I had been told (and begged to be retold)- of daredevil bicycle tricks performed along the ten-mile ride to school, of swimming across the Rhine to steal apples from a neighbor’s orchard, and most thrilling and memorable of all, of accidentally burning down the family home when a stray match ignited the roof thatch. Given this nostalgia, to stroll into a sleek lounge resplendent with Starck-esque interiors and a river-front terrace that would not have been out of place in Bali or Ibiza was to be shocked. According to my family members, Tante Loes in its present ultra-modern incarnation is a far cry from a chequered past as front office for activities of questionable legality.

Lately my remembrances are defined by certain memorable meals, and this one was more so than most. Not having spent much time in the Netherlands despite holding a Dutch passport, my connection to the place has never felt that strong. The menu that was handed to me was printed in English, as was the language that I ordered in. The creamy, crispy Uitsmijter that I ate was a breakfast dish that should have been familiar, but wasn’t. I would never claim to be a “real” Dutch girl, but despite the fact that I’ve missed a lot of opportunity to identify with my roots, something that is of great comfort to me is that through food over all other social glues, it is never too late to form the ties that bind.

I may not have eaten Uitsmijter as a child, but each time I eat it in the future I shall think of a windswept day on the Rhine spent re-connecting with the extended family I regret not having known more of. Happily, love of RGF appears to run in the family and I’m sure I’ll very shortly have reports of breaking bread with Uncle Piet in Holland or grilling fish with Cousin Rob in Greece.

Details: Veerplein 1, 3911 TN Rhenen, Netherlands (+31317616161)