Le Fooding D’amour @ Queens, NY *****

Left: Grilled Chicken Necks with Yuzu Marmalade and Delfino by Wylie Dufresne of WD-50 

Right: Bo Ssäm by David Chang of Momofuku 

My life as an eater reached a stunning plateau last weekend when I attended Le Fooding d’amour and was able to meet two of my chef-heroes, WD-50′s Wylie Dufresne and Momofuku’s David Chang.

Having expended considerable effort to obtain tickets to Le Cliquot d’amour, what was supposed to be “an exclusive Champagne preview for the first 150 foodies…where they will be the first to sample the six exclusive recipes created by six premier chefs from New York and Paris,” I arrived promptly at the 6 pm start time elated and with an appetite. Perhaps the intention was to engender a visceral reminder of the cause of the event’s beneficiary, Action Against  Hunger, but to be kept waiting a full thirty minutes while delicious flavors wafted over the walls of P.S.1 Contemporary Art Center bordered on outright cruelty.

As the various marinated meats on the menu sizzled on Broil King Imperial BBQs and sent up the heady aromas of beef, chicken, and best of all, pork , I got a free lesson in Manhattanite outrage. “Isn’t there another VIP entrance somwhere?” a statuesque woman inquired. “VIP my a**. I am going to call up Amex to block the charge,” an iPhone-weilding man proclaimed.  Hell hath no fury like the disgruntlement of the entitled.

Yet, as my friend Allison and I realized shortly after the floodgates were opened and we dashed delightedly through a maze of weird architectural formations draped in burlap, we really were extremely privileged; there were chefs afoot. For me, one of the event’s main draws had been the chance to finally sample Momofuku’s Bo Ssäm, a dish that serves 6-10 people, and when served at Momofuku Ssäm Bar, must ordinarily be ordered in advance. I had no idea that chef-owner David Chang himself would be rolling up his sleeves and serving lettuce-wrapped pork butt personally! 

Shyly, we approached the Momofuku stand, where assistant chefs were hard at work grilling and plating. Even more shyly, we introduced ourselves. “Ming and I actually met at one of your restaurants,” Allison revealed. Embarassed by the lightning storm of flashes emanating from my point-and-shoot, I had turned to the diners seated on the high bar stools next to me apologetically. Yet, in the next second I was being told about LookWhatWeAte.com, Allison’s own food blog. Food has a way of bringing people together like that.

Yes, Chang’s Bo Ssäm was divine, and yes, Dufresne’s grilled chicken necks did not disappoint, but to be honest my recollection of the event is entirely overpowered by the personalities of these two food luminaries. I will confess an embarassing and all-encompassing giddiness, but will also say that sometimes it is necessary to be reminded that behind every good restaurant is a person who really loves food. To consume glorious, decadent foods is to have pleasure, but to do so in great company is to truly make a memory.

Details: P.S.1 Contemporary Art Center, 22-25 Jackson Ave Long Island City, NY 11101-4309 (+1 718-784-2084)