Yerba Buena Perry @ NYC ****

Tiradito Ceviche (Flounder, Aji Amarillo, Sweet potato, Red onions, Cilantro, Maiz Cancha)

I haven’t actually run the numbers, but I’d say it’s a safe bet that NYC’s West Village must have one of the highest ratios of restaurants to residents in the world. Given the high availability of substitutes, it is therefore even more impressive when a restaurant in this area manages to distinguish itself. If I am going to visit a “trendy” restaurant, I usually try to do so earlier in the week when business is likely to be a little slower. This mostly helps to avoid the pitfalls of bad service from rushed waiters and sub-par food from an over-extended kitchen. I book a restaurant via Opentable, the next day a survey appears in my inbox inviting me to rate various aspects of the dining experience, one of which is noise level. On this particular Tuesday night, Yerba Buena Perry was packed and the noise level was definitively energetic. In such circumstances I always request a corner table, allowing me to sit next to rather than across from my dining companion so that my dinner conversation doesn’t have to be projected in a series of yells. While I was delighted to have been accomodated, I wonder how different the dining experience would have been had this not been the case?

Menu-wise, YBP shares many similarities with Sushi Samba, including a personal favorite, oversize kernels of Peruvian corn. Atmosphere-wise however, this intimate Latin hotspot wins hands down. Small, decorated in dark wood and plush fabrics, and with a lethal cocktail list featuring such exotic offerings as the Mezcal Maid (Scorpion Mezcal + Cucumbers + Lime + Yerbabuena), it is little wonder that the beautiful people have been coming in droves. Yet, appearance without substance does not restaurant longevity make, and happily YBP does not fall into this trap. Dishes like the Watermelon Fries with Yerba Mate Ketchup are deliciously unusual, and the Coffee Glazed Pork Belly Arepas with Cabbage Slaw pose a serious threat to Momofuku Ssäm Bar’s Steamed Buns with Pork Belly.

Special thanks to my friend Max for the terrific recommendation. To satisfy a taste for Cuba without the risk of jail time, scurry down for some small plates.

Details: 1 Perry St (at Greenwich Ave) New York, NY 10014 (+1-212-620-0808)