Dovetail @ NYC ****

Rose Petal-Infused Aloe Vera Jelly

To dovetail means “to join together harmoniously,” and harmonious is certainly a most appropriate adjective to describe the delicate flavors experienced at this cosy French-inspired New American UWS enclave. From the Brussel Sprouts Leaves with Cauliflower, Manchego, and Serrano Ham to the Salt Baked Onion with Perigord Truffles and Hazlenuts, course after course excited, refreshed, and most importantly, delighted the taste buds. All-in-all, exactly the sort of outcome one would wish for in an unexpected Sunday evening dinner invitation.   

Again and again I am pleasantly surprised by the depth and breadth of the New York restaurant scene. Seemingly every other block is home to the sort of restaurant that would be the talk of the town in any other city, but what I’ve been wondering is, who pays for it all? While places like Morimoto, MASA, and Momofuku Ko have star power such that $85+ tasting menus do not seem out of place, are there really enough serious (and well-off) foodies in NYC that a relatively lesser-known (but in my opinion equally excellent) haute cuisine restaurants like Dovetail and Aldea can survive? 

Chef John Fraser’s reaction to the phone call I placed announcing that my companion and I had both become slightly ill following our meal suggests that competition is cuthroat indeed. Profuse apologies were made, credit card charges reversed, and an open invitation for a complimentary follow-up dinner was issued. Although I was not looking for a refund whatsoever, enjoyed the food very much, and had only called up as a warning in case any other diners had been affected, this swift and sincere action really impressed me. As a friend of mine like to say, “most of the time people just want to feel like they are being taken seriously.” As much as I have seen this principle neglected across a wide spectrum of restaurants, an important thing to remember is that at heart this is a business based on service.

For the sort of great treatment that shouldn’t be so unusual, try a Sunday Suppa on the Upper West Side.

Details: 103 W 77th St (at Columbus) New York, NY 10024-6909 (+1-212-362-3800)