SD26 @ NYC ****

Uovo in raviolo al burro tartufato (Soft egg-yolk filled raviolo with a truffle butter) with White Truffles

There is a growing trend of successful restaurants opening branches in Las Vegas. In the case of the transformation of SD26, the owners of the traditional Italian eatery formerly known as San Domenico have managed to create a corner of Sin City right alongside Madison Square Park. Would-be diners proceeding towards the main hall are invited to deposit their coats and scarves at the night-club-style coat check alcove. Upon being seated, one is presented with clunky metal and plastic device, which upon closer examination reveals itself to be the mother of all wine lists. Stabbing at the touch screen with fingers still clumsy from cold, my dining companion, although a wine aficionado was nevertheless at a loss over what to select. Sorts by region, varietal, and price remained inconclusive, the inability to scan quickly from one end to another without a tedious repetition of keystrokes being a key impediment to the decision-making process. Eventually, wine arrived the old-fashioned way, after consultation with the sommelier, a comic character whose main distinguishing feature besides a luxuriant pony-tail was a wine spittoon worn around the neck just as boldly as any rapper’s bling.

Ignoring the appraising stares of people-watchers peering through the plexiglass barriers of the second-floor gallery, I turned my attention to the menu. What awaited my discovery was truly astonishing! Pliant, peppery soppresata from the in-house charcuterie counter, and the fattiest, most flavorful pata negra ham I have ever tasted set the tone for what was to be an evening of complete culinary indulgence. Thanks to seasonal additions, I tried both the Fettuccine al Burro e Parmigiano (Homemade Fettucine with Butter and Parmigiano) and the Uovo in Raviolo al Burro Tartufato (Soft Egg-yolk Filled Raviolo with Truffle Butter), both hand-made, springy in the mouth, and smothered with gasp-worthy quantities of shaved white truffle.

In the midst of this rapture, the owner Tony May stopped by to ask  how the meal was going.  Through the act of shaking his hand, I was at once transported to the San Domenico of times gone by, where good old-fashioned Italian hospitality transcended trends. In the end, I was willing to tolerate the contrived chi chi atmosphere, the overbearingly attentive servers, and the ’efficiency’ of a wine computer that managed to overcharge our Barolo,  for the simple reason that Really Good Food trumps everything. Indeed, for a second chance to delight in the erotic ooze in the first bite of raviolo and a reunion with the sublime pata negra, I would endure far greater hardships.

Details: 19 East 26th Street (bet 5th and Madison) New York, NY 10010-1404 (+1-212-265-5959)